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Australia Travel Diary - p 6
16 July 2002
Now begins the long drive south into the desert, the
"Dead Heart" of Australia - 1000 miles of 2-lane blacktop. Hours of ennui
are interrupted by moments of terror
from the infamous road trains. In this country they link as many as four trailers to an
18-wheeler to create a monster 175 feet long. Passing one of these behemoths in
rolling countryside really puts the excitement back into driving. This doesn't
happen often, fortunately, because most of them drive faster than I do.
To break the monotony, I stop at Devil's Marbles. It does look
like someone stacked up these giant rocks, 10 -20 feet in diameter, just for the heck of
it. The natural process that created them is complicated - it took a while,
because some are up to a billion years old. In fact, many of the oldest rocks on the
planet are found in Australia. And they have a river south of here that hasn't
changed its course much in 300 million years. 
17 July 2002
I'm spending the night in a chalet
(actually a single-wide trailer) at Wycliff Well Caravan Park. Wycliff Well calls
itself the UFO Centre of Australia because of all the sightings. This makes sense
when you think about it. If the aliens need a remote spot on the planet to fly about
unhindered, central Australia fits the bill. The UFOs do get out of line
occasionally, following people in their cars at night, scaring the wits out of otherwise
stouthearted Aussies. My chalet is covered with paintings of aliens who look a lot
like the Creature from the Black Lagoon.
A short walk leads to an artificial lake around which are wonderful
birds: Yellow-throated Miner, Australian Ringnecked Parrot, Budgerigar,
White-plumed Honeyeater. Especially common are the Mistletoebirds, whose diet
consists of fruits of the parasitic southern hemisphere mistletoe (Loranthus).
Their droppings on limbs contain the sticky seed which germinate and infect the next host
plant.
Drinking and bathing at the lake's edge is a new estrildid, the
Zebra (rhymes with Debra here) Finch. I approach carefully: one slow step
every 5 sec, pausing 10 sec after each third step. Eventually I am within 20 feet of
these tiny colorful birds. The bathing party ends in wild panic and flight when the
birds hear a series of shrill whistles warning of a predator, in this case a Brown
Goshawk. This call, which I believe is given by the common Magpie-larks (actually
ground-dwelling flycatchers), invariably sends all birds scattering, be they finches,
honeyeaters, or even parrots. It seems to be a universal warning signal among birds
here.
Travel Diary
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